China Doll
Image: Curiosity drew me to this undeniably popular Finger Wharf entry, but I wasn’t sure quite what to expect!
Curiosity drew me to this undeniably popular Finger Wharf entry, but I wasn’t sure quite what to expect! Attracting mostly conservative and wealthy over-thirties, it was surprising to find Scottish-born Chinese chef Frank Shek dishing up playful, and at times challenging, food. Thick, fatty BBQ Lamb Ribs ($22) are juxtaposed with pickled bean sprouts and tangy chilli lime. Sashimi of Hiramasa Kingfish and Ocean Trout ($26) arrives speckled red with blackened chilli dressing. It reminds me (if I can be so crass) of Samboy Barbecue Chips; but the combination unlocks the ocean trout so well that I fall more in love with each successive bite. (I’m generally not a fan.) Meaty, succulent Fremantle Octopus ($18) is another big win; and while his prawn and mushroom Steamed Dumplings ($20) may not have the thinnest skin in town, they certainly pack in the most flavour! Add my name to the masses who will protest if the Penang Curry of Wagyu Beef Shin ($36) ever leaves the menu – it’s incredible! Michael Watt, who left a legacy of tunes and wine at Manly Pavilion, elevates service here to a whole new level. So it’s prudent to drink his recommended 2009 Peter Lauer Fass Trocken Riesling ($13/glass) after downing a clever Ling Ling ($17).
China Doll
4/6 Cowper Wharf Road, Woolloomooloo
Ph: (02) 9380 6744 www.chinadoll.com.au
Pan Asian $$$$
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