Manly Pavilion
Image: Against the imposing backdrop of South Head, white sails dance. The sun is still setting, but this elegant, coastal space is full. The crowd tonight is mostly successful tradies and their ladies, sporting healthy tans and the odd tattoo.

Against the imposing backdrop of South Head, white sails dance. The sun is still setting, but this elegant, coastal space is full. The crowd tonight is mostly successful tradies and their ladies, sporting healthy tans and the odd tattoo. Precious few have journeyed across the harbour – a shame because Jonathan Barthelmess is turning out excellent food. It’s a little pricy, but it’s hard to quibble as you drink in the view with a refreshing Sgroppino ($17) with house-made lemon sorbet and lovely Prosecco in hand. Expect pared back elegance on the plate – from a funky salad of Crisp Pig’s Tail with Toasted Bread and Mushrooms ($24); to a rich, signature Pepper Risotto ($22/$26) dotted with Taleggio; to the crisp, porky pleasure of the Roast Suckling Pig ($44). You must include the light pillows of Ricotta Gnocchi ($24) served in a restrained mixture of burnt butter, olive and purslane that whispers: ‘mop me up with bread’. The battalion of staff lead by Graham Taylor have evolved a warm style of service that suits the space, illustrated wonderfully by Jessica. The memory of sommelier Michael Watt lingers on in the epic wine list and the mood appropriate sixties Jamaican Ska tunes – a total package!

Manly Pavilion
West Esplanade, Manly Cove
Ph: (02) 9949 9011 www.manlypavilion.com.au
Italian $$$$

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