It takes a strong restaurant to knock down previous tenants, The Woods, but Mark Best has cleared the trees - and a few walls – in the Four Seasons to bring his famous Melbourne bistro to town.
The austere minimalism of the room makes you concentrate on the subtlety of what's in the glass and on the plate. Against a limited colour palate – even the kitchen and floor teams wear alternating navy and dark grey – I find myself leaning in to capture a whisker of smoke from the exquisite Roasted Oysters ($4/each).
Last week alongside a couple of hundred chefs and restaurateurs, I headed down to Salt Meat Cheese in Alexandria. We were there for the launch of Sydney’s latest entry in the restaurant guide scene: the 2014 Gault & Millau Sydney Restaurant Guide [RRP $24.99].