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Master

“The sauce is quite good,” I say, gesturing at the Burnt Cabbage ($18) with fish sauce butter. “It is. What do you think about Kiss,” my dining companion snarks, “it’s Chinese Ester, but at least Ester gives you the full half cauliflower.” The eclectic (and often inappropriate) music is not solely responsible for his mood.

Master

If any place encapsulates the combination of fine dining without the snooty never-get-laid wait staff; and the trendy without the too-cool-for-you army of bearded artisans of ‘whatever’, Master might just be the perfect candidate.