“It can’t be corked, but it can be screwed,” quips Manager/Sommelier Gonzalo Burgos, as we taste our 2011 Domaine Daniel Dampt Petit Chablis ($67/bottle). His face is familiar from my visit to Uncorked, atop The Union in North Sydney. He’s made a similar list here, offering interest and value at a reasonable city pub price-point. Chef Ronny Ghantous has also crossed the bridge to create a French-inspired, modern Australian collection of approachable pub dishes. Reluctantly (and only because I’ve eaten it) I forgo his shaved Salade au Foie Gras ($16) for Parfait au Porc ($15). By some strange coincidence, as I smear it onto toast with caramelised eschallots and apple pie filling, I locate the word ‘quenelle’ in the giant find-a-words decorating the walls. Time between courses has never been quite so engaging! The grill is put to good use with steaks like Le Entrecote ($26) scrubbing up well (though I’d exchange Café de Paris ‘sauce’ for butter). It suits Legumes Verte ($8) and Paris Mash ($9); but so does the star of the show, the Collet d’Agneau ($24). Prepare to get stonkered by mountains of pan-seared, roasted lamb neck and lashings of cauliflower puree with a dusting of peas, micro herbs and clever quinoa crumbs. Yep, cheeses can wait…
Le Pub
66 King Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9262 3277 lepub.com.au
Pub Bistro, French $$
