Firedoor

“It’s big, it’s heavy, it’s wood. It’s log…” Ren & Stimpy aren’t the only ones obsessed with logs. Firedoor’s log is the first gnarly object to catch your eye, right after the fancy sliding door spits you unceremoniously into the Surry Hills warehouse, your arm awkwardly half-raised. Fink Group backing makes this the perfect sibling to Bridge Room; oozing the same casual luxury. Ned Goodwin has curated a great wine list, and Bar Manager Phil McElory delivers it with aplomb, steering me into a lovely blend of chardonnay and Chenin blanc, the 2011 Lammershoek Roulette Blanc ($77). The long banquette provides a vantage point to view the open kitchen, where Chef Lennox Hastie puts the skills he learned at Spain’s Etxebarri​ to good use. Employing wood fire and variety of different logs (including nectarine wood), he gently coaxes the best out of your dinner. Jersey Curd ($16) balances smoky creaminess with pickles. Seafood options, from barely-set WA Marron ($46) to plump Pippies ($32) with garlic and chilli, prove menu highlights; the latter necessitating Wood Fired Bread ($7) for mopping up tasty, briny juices. Meatier options, like Lamb Rump Cap ($48) with perfectly cooked borlotti beans – form an ideal bridge to dessert: root vegetables made super delicious as roasted Spaghetti Squash ($16) with pepitas and pumpkin ice cream.

Firedoor
23-33 Mary Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 8204 0800 firedoor.com.au
Modern Australian $$$$