Mayday! Mayday! My partner is seriously considering having a Man Vs. Food moment at Essen Restaurant this month, during their Schnitzilla Challenge…
While some might say that the only thing that can result from merging a catering business and restaurant is a crisis of identity, I found a certain appeal in this quirky Darlo lovechild. It's shabby chic, Poznań style - with overstuffed armchairs, kitsch cushions and proud Poles, like Darius Grygo, manning the floor.
Since my last visit, new owners Andrew Menczel and Laci Csobonyei have taken the stark out of this Philippe Starck space. With Laci’s own artworks now adorning the walls, and a mural of Budapest backing the kitchen, the overall effect is quite homely.
The biggest and busiest entrant on Eat Street is a large and airy venue, ideal for Sydney’s al fresco summer. When in Bavaria, one should drink beer... because if you drink schnapps, the whole restaurant is subjected to an infernal cowbell.
This recently reborn space will speak to those who have a penchant for the cuisines of Central Europe. Climb the stairs from Norton Street and leave behind the buzz of ‘Little Italy’ for a (much needed) cultural interloper.