Eat & Drink

Newtown Sushi Train

The words ‘sushi train’ don’t always fill me with the greatest of confidence. Too often I’ve been burned with boring, lack-lustre offerings. The first clue that this Newtown stalwart (opened in 2004) is different, is a glass cabinet featuring beautiful batons of sashimi-grade fish. The second is a small, hand-drawn menu of Chef’s Recommendations. Chef Satoshi Yoshioka’s headline act, Toro ($5.50/1 piece), is some of the best bluefin tuna belly I’ve tried, especially for the price. Sinking your teeth into the white-banded, soft pink flesh is like biting into a stick of butter – pure sex. It’s such a revelation, my usual briny favourite, sea urchin – served here as Uni Ships ($5.50/2 pieces) – pales in comparison. Taking the daily hand-written list as my guide, I move onto sweet, creamy Scampi ($4.50/1 piece) served nigiri style on elongated fingers of sushi rice. You won’t always find delicate Imperador ($4.50/2 pieces) on the menu, but when you do, it’s one of my favourite white-fleshed fishes. The intimate seventeen counter seat setting allows you to order from the chefs as required, then watch them blow-torch your Aburi Salmon ($4.50/2 pieces) or spicier Salmon Volcano ($5.50/2 pieces). Firm-fleshed herb fed kingfish is another house-specialty, and well worth investigating in your Mixed Sashimi ($12.50/8 pieces). Maybe I’ve misjudged Sydney’s sushi trains…

Newtown Sushi Train
316 King Street, Newtown
Ph: (02) 9557 4435
Japanese $

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