Tantalising glimpses of working chefs through a George Street window box; a well-dressed hostess highlighting the way into the basement off Angel Place… restaurateur Sam Prince sure knows how to generate excitement and intrigue. Switching out guacamole for Tableside Coconut Sambol ($14) and milk buns, Prince harnesses what he did for Mexican at Méjico to give South Indian a much-needed face-lift. The emphasis is on top quality ingredients, like fragrant curry leaves enlivening a soupy mix of Clams and Mussels in Kerala Coconut Broth ($28). The dish calls for bread, and while Paratha ($6) could be flakier, a gluten-free Dosa ($18) from the same central dosa kitchen hits the spot, especially stuffed with smoked duck leg, zucchini raita and bacon jam. Summery Watermelon Salad ($16) stays thematic with the clever addition of hung yoghurt, but Chef Binal Kumar’s real triumph is the Bone Marrow and Lamb Kashmiri Curry ($36). The decadent, creamy fat offers respite against the curry’s spicy acidity; with visual appeal generated by accompanying yellow Lemon Rice ($9) and pink Beetroot Apple Raita ($6). Well chosen wines are edged out by gin – from subtle garam-marsala enhancement in The Village Negroni ($18) to premium G+Ts balanced by carefully measured Capi tonic. Try Gin Mare, Mango and Peppercorn ($16) with saffron anglais accented Gulub Jamun ($16).
Basement Level, 350 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9223 0158 indudining.com.au
Modern Indian $$$$