O Bar & Dining

Emerging from the lift into this darkened space your eyes are instantly captivated by the panoramic city view. Head Chef Darren Templeman has brought over much of what I loved from Restaurant Atelier, though his new iconic Harry Seidler-designed location means he’s obliged to paint with a broader brush. Some dishes, like creamy Burata di Buffala ($29) simply play with expectations, substituting crisp chicken skin where you might expect crackers; while others, like House-made Soy Tofu ($30) with dashi spiked with aged Korean soy, are as gloriously uncompromising as ever. Owner Michael Moore’s health focus has not been forgotten; it’s just been given a distinctively Templeman twist in delicate Pink Snapper Sashimi ($32) with torched avocado, finger lime and crisp tapioca, or lettuce boats of Rump Steak ‘Tartare’ ($35) topped with crunchy puffed tendon. Darren’s favourite producers have also made the ascent. Milly Hill Lamb Rump ($42) kicks it British yellow curry-style against sheep’s yoghurt, cumin, charred okra and surprising sprouted lentils. Penrith’s Zokoko chocolate gets a look-in against an Atelier classic – the crowd-pleasing Hot Plum Souffle ($20). In the hands of Head Bartender Andy Calderon, innovative cocktails like Pete the Peruvian ($18) & The Kingsford ($18) are in keeping with this high altitude location, as is warm, hospitable service from Restaurant Manager Thomas Philbin-Malucelli.

O Bar & Dining
Level 47, Australia Square, 264 George Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9247 9777 obardining.com.au
Modern Australian, Cocktails $$$$

You May Also Like

Comments are closed.