There’s a better meld between the new name-brand occupant and the kind of restaurant we might expect to represent us in a key public space. Matt Moran and Peter Sullivan from MorSul have brought the highlights of the garden-driven Chiswick over to the Art Gallery of NSW’s restaurant space. You’ll find all the communal dining elements they’re famous for – the slow-roasted Moran family farm lamb; the whole roast chook – but here, the plants are by necessity potted, and the general aesthetic Scandinavian. The simple lines keep your attention where it should be – on the commanding view of waterside Woolloomooloo. Lacking the necessary companionship for the communal route, I dabbled in cocktails and small plates. While Szechuan Yellowfin Tuna ($20) with apple, cucumber and mint was too muted, the dude food options surprised. I particularly enjoyed Snow Crab Sliders ($9/each) and crisp pieces of Fried Quail ($22) with lively jalapeños and sriracha mayo. They’re prefect against the passionfruit chilli punch of the Picante de la Casa ($17). Alternatively, construct a light yet classy lunch with Oysters ($4/each) augmented by Native Thyme and Garlic Flatbread ($6) and seasonal Peaches ($17) with bitter leaves and mint. It makes the perfect excuse to explore their list of interesting wines, starting with the home-grown (Canberra) 2014 Lark Hill Grüner Veltliner ($14.50/glass).

Chiswick at the Gallery
Art Gallery of New South Wales, Art Gallery Road, The Domain, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9225 1819 chiswickrestaurant.com.au
Modern Australian $$$-$$$$