LuMi Bar & Dining
Against a magnificent painted sky, this gleaming glass box on Pyrmont Bay is awash with orange and pink. It’s the sort of night that begs to be made into a celebration, and this restaurant delivers with an imaginative (and obligatory) eight-course Degustation ($89/head). Owner/Chef Federico Zanellato balances Italian passion with an intriguing Japanese aesthetic. The result delivers date night on a stylish series of earthenware plates. Take Communion together with chef’s explosive caviar-topped spelt ravioli if you don’t believe me. The opener – Parmesan chawanmushi – should stifle any doubts that these two culinary influences will be anything other than the best of friends. It’s followed by five excellent savoury courses, which demonstrate Zanellato’s grasp of light and shade. A delicate mound of crab, Jerusalem artichoke and oyster powder sits in dramatic contrast to a deceptive twirl of stinging nettle chitarra – spaghetti well-coated with intense mussel cream and crumbled pork – packing an umami punch reminiscent of bottarga. The dish shrieks red wine, and the 2012 Garagiste Merricks Pinot Noir ($95) answers nicely. While technically excellent, the dessert of milk ice cream loses touch slightly with Zanellato’s culinary narrative. No matter – his Evergreen pre-dessert is outstanding – a garden of brightly green textures, temperatures and tastes. Catch this rising star while he’s still underpriced…
LuMi Bar & Dining
56 Pirrama Road, Pyrmont
Ph: (02) 9571 1999 lumidining.com
Italian, Japanese, Wine $$$-$$$$
