The Union Hotel

Bar Food Booze Eat & Drink Pub Bistro Wine

Jackie McMillan
September 17, 2014

While the padded white booths in the upstairs showpiece Uncorked are now only reserved for functions, there’s still reason to visit The Union Hotel to eat. Le Bistro reads like a hybrid of a traditional pub menu with elements of the Gallagher Hotels’ runaway success – Le Pub. The menu recognises that steaks and schnitzels are pub staples, while still adding a bit of flair for those who want something more interesting. There’s also a definite focus on group dining, including a strong hors d’oeuvres selection. The “dogs” I loved at Le Pub Balmain have migrated over, sadly without the same crusty buns. The Pulled Pork Dog ($6) edges out the Marinated Chicken Dog ($6) on flavour, but still doesn’t come close to the lamb. Duck and ‘Slaw Open Steamed Buns ($14/2) have the kind of alcohol-absorbing qualities I like when I’m settling in to drink; while the flavoursome Pea and Parmesan Croquettes ($15.50) with truffled pecorino, pea puree and mint, aren’t just put on there for vegetarians. Accompany either with the Jean Luc Mader Pinot Blanc ($56/bottle) before advancing to the Fickle Mistress Central Otago Pinot Noir ($15/glass) with your Slow Cooked Lamb Shoulder ($25). Labne breaks up the intensely flavoured chickpea and pimento ragu. You need a bowl of the Union Waffle Chips ($10) too.