Living up to the hype that the daytime café business generated was always going to be hard… Chef Zachary Tan has kept dinner distinctly casual, dishing up Malaysian-influenced hawker snacks dressed up with the same premium ingredients that make Chef Jacqui Ektoros’ morning menus so special. So you can expect to find heady Manjimup truffle slices adorning the Chinese Egg Custard ($29), and fleshy lobster tails slathered with Kewpie mayonnaise and stuffed inside buttery brioche in your individual Lobster Roll ($15.50). Before you get too carried away, tuck into compelling Spiced Fried Chickpeas ($3) and ponder the concise but cleverly chosen list of alcoholic beverages. The 2012 Mitchelton Marsanne ($17/glass) will suit your roll, but if you’re after a good all-rounder, the Echigo Koshihikari Rice Lager ($12) is a personal favourite. Raw dishes, like ‘Prawn and Scallop Wontons’ ($18) are inviting, playing on the classic som tum with scallop adding a wonderful, textural creaminess; while others, like an oily Pig Ear Katsu ($19), are not quite as successful. Unwrapping charred banana leaves to reveal tender Skate Wing ($23) reminds me that I came to this dark, grungy garage to eat modern Asian street food. With that in mind, the poor man’s ‘snow egg’ of Coconut Jelly, Guava Sorbet and Freeze Dried Pineapple ($11) should make you grin.
Devon By Night
76 Devonshire Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9211 8777 devoncafe.com.au
Pan-Asian, Cafe $$$
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