This pub’s a cosy spot to hole up on a cold and blustery night; from happy hour in the comfortable front bar where I sink an Austrian Stiegl ($4/middy), to the dark brown wine bar with pressed tin ceilings; the chic red lounge, or the popular (though more cavernous) back bar. Tonight my heart’s set on the restaurant, decked out with bright Aboriginal art from Utopia. I’m here to check out new chef Nathan Jackson – well he’s not exactly new, he first cooked here under Leigh McDivitt. Now holding the reins, he’s producing a short menu accentuated by a great wine list. My unusual selection – the 2011 Domaine Bruno Sorg Sylvaner ($74/bottle) from Alsace – performs well against an interesting House Smoked Mackerel ($18) scattered amongst a collection of greens, horseradish, pickled radish and potato gaufrettes. Fontina and Truffle Tortellini ($18) – a shade thick for my liking – are sound on flavour with shaved Serrano ham and mushroom consommé. The Spatchcock ($32) comes with nice brioche and herb dumplings, but pales in comparison to the somewhat pricy 7+ Wagyu Flatiron ($40), its flavour amped by bone marrow butter, pine mushrooms and ox tail jus. Ultra-thin ginger nut biscuits make the Salt Caramel Parfait Sandwich ($14) something that gives Pat & Sticks a run for their money.
Restaurant at 3 Weeds
197 Evans Street, Rozelle
Ph: (02) 9818 2788 3weeds.com.au
Pub Bistro, Modern Australian, Wine $$$$