Two Claude’s chefs, Ben Sears and his Korean wife Eun Hee An, are “learning what it is to manage a restaurant in Sydney,” according to former Claude’s manager Abby Meinke. Under her stewardship the floor is seamless. Abby’s formidable wine knowledge now extends to soju, and her recommended Moonbae-sool Soju ($10) speaks of pear, and it’s a pleasant way to kick-start your evening while rice crackers, kombu and thyme dissolve on your tongue. The wine list holds much excitement; I passed over interesting wines from France, Italy and America to stay local with the 2013 Ochota Barrels ‘The Flint Vineyard’ Chardonnay ($85). It suited anju (bar snacks) like Moonlight Flat Claire de Lune Oysters ($4.50/each) topped chilli threads and plum vinegar, and briny Sea Urchin Roe ($6/each) presented on seed biscuits with black garlic. Familiar cabbage-wrapped beef bulgogi – Ssam ($7/each) – were a meal highlight, as was an unusual smoky Eggplant with Egg Custard ($16) dish topped with nicely textural lotus root. While Green Beans with Ssamjang ($6) were ordinary, and Samgyeopsal ($29) pork belly with diamond clams and crown daisy had too much unrendered fat for my taste, overall this is an exciting and innovative addition to Sydney’s Korean dining landscape. Blow-torched marshmallow on the Moon Pie ($14) will ensure you emerge onto Redfern’s streets smiling.
Moon Park
Level 1, 34 Redfern Street, Redfern
Ph: (02) 9690 0111 moon-park.com.au
Modern Korean, Wine $$$
