At its heart, the Light Brigade is a sports bar. So when they did a recent spruce-up, they felt it was important not to alienate their heartland. Enter designer Annie Snell, who has cleverly worked around the large plasma screens that still delight on sports days, whilst managing to make it feel pleasantly inviting. Edison light bulbs are, of course, a given. Now that Chef Massimo Mele has bedded in his sharing Italian menu upstairs at La Scala On Jersey, I suspect we’ll see some movement on the classic pub menu down here which comes out of the same kitchen. That’s not to say there’s anything wrong with a 250g Char-Grilled Rump Steak ($22), especially on Wednesday nights when they knock ten bucks off the price, without messing with size or quality. It sings against one of the best green peppercorn sauces I’ve tried in a pub. The classic Chicken Breast Schnitzel ($19) is another plump, juicy winner, especially with mushroom sauce. While the on-tap beers were a bit mainstream for my taste, I didn’t mind the toasty, toffee notes of Matilda Bay Brewing Company’s Ruby Tuesday ($6.80/schooner). However the 2012 Partisan ‘Trenchcoat’ GSM ($44/bottle, $9/glass) will better accompany you through a plate of Spiced Lamb Meatballs ($15) in tomato and pea sauce.
Light Brigade Hotel
2A Oxford Street, Woollahra
Ph: (02) 9357 0888 lightbrigade.com.au
Pub Bistro $-$$