The Tilbury

We smash Kingsleys!” Chef Elton Inglis – who has worked with Gordon Ramsey and Jamie Oliver – isn’t backwards about coming forwards regarding the quality of his cooking or his chosen produce. In this case, it’s New Zealand’s Riverlands beef fillet served en croute in Beef Wellington ($35). It has a neighbouring table of British nationals smiling and keen to share their recommendation. We cement the friendship by sharing our Truffle Oil and Parmesan Mash ($7) – possibly order overkill – because Elton’s crisp Berkshire Pork Belly ($29) already came adorned with black pudding, savoy cabbage, carrot fondant, onion puree and compressed apple. His modern interpretations of British comfort food are perfect for a drizzly Sunday afternoon. Alongside his silky Pappardelle with Braised Oxtail Ragout ($29), my menu highlight was Chicken Liver Parfait ($16) with an architecturally arranged pile of curved toast, golden raisin, pickled cauliflower, hazelnuts and kiwi berry. Pan-seared Scallops ($24) on a bed of watermelon fried off in scallop juices and deglazed with raspberry vinaigrette provided a great foil for the 2013 Oliver’s Taranga Vineyard Vermentino ($12/glass). It’s but one option from their short but interesting by-the-glass list that we explored thoroughly, as neither of us were in a hurry to leave the light-drenched setting, or the comfortable, long, leather banquette…

The Tilbury
12-18 Nicholson Street, Woolloomooloo
Ph: (02) 9368 1955 tilburyhotel.com.au
Modern Australian, Pub Bistro $$$-$$$$

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