Ipoh on York
Don’t dive into this subterranean York Street space looking for fancy décor or a quiet lunch. Instead you’ll find a cool Malaysian drink station serving up sweet milky Teh ($3.50) (tea) and Kopi ($3.50) (coffee). It fronts a lively lunch space with excited chatter reverberating off clean white walls. The tables here turn over fast, so even if it’s busy, you’re bound to soon find a seat. What keeps the suited faithful queuing are warm bowls of rich and spicy Chicken Laksa ($9.50), notable for the clarity of bright green herbs. The neighbouring tables are getting stuck into pyramids of Nasi Lemak ($10.50) and Hainanese Chicken Rice ($10.50). The latter is a very credible rendition – moist and juicy chicken breast, nutty rice, chilli and an excellent ginger sauce – I only wished they’d left on the skin! (Healthy eating plans shouldn’t mean we all have to throw away flavour.) Enjoy flaky Roti Canai ($9/2 piece) with curry chicken over beef rendang (it’s good, I’ve just had better); before cooling your mouth on a glorious pile of vivid shaved ice. The Ice Kacang ($5.50) here hides red beans, sweet yellow corn, black grass jelly, palm seeds and peanuts; and it’s sure to put a smile on your face!
Ipoh On York
Shop 2, Lower Ground, 89 York Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9299 0001 ipohcentral.com
Malaysian $
