As Sydney celebrated Mardi Gras I had my own Fat Tuesday at this revamped beauty. It’s big, fat, loud food for big, fat, loud people, underpinned by solid French technique, courtesy of ten-year Becasse stalwart James Metcalfe. Get messy (perhaps revisiting some of your earlier memories in this iconic spot) with butter-drenched Grilled Alaskan Crab Clusters ($19/250g) or Jumbo Shrimp ($24) in Creole butter so tasty, you’ll damn your arteries and demand Warm Bread ($3). The prawns go gangbusters with Samuel Adams Noble Pils ($8), a worthwhile selection from the bottled American beers. Eight bucks will also buy surprisingly drinkable wines, or you can splash out on the Papillion ($19), a gin-based concoction featuring spiced apples and peaches that’s best consumed with airy Crackling ($5). New Orleans staples, like Clam and Corn Chowder ($22) and Jambalaya ($25), are notable more for impeccably handled seafood than faithful adherence to the originals. With the bold use of chilli and other amped flavours, you will want to put your mouth back together with dessert. I ran the gauntlet for you, dear reader, with The Bourbon Tasting Plate ($30). If you want me to bet on the nose, it’s a dead heat between Beignets ($12) with peppered strawberries, and tart Lime Cheese Cake ($12).
22 Darlinghurst Road, Potts Point
Ph: (02) 9035 8888 thebourbon.com.au
Bar, American, Cocktails $$$