I was warned: categorise this restaurant and whatever it is will vanish in a puff of steaming chai, rather like their steamy yet elegant dessert: Hot Tea, Iced Tea, Aaah Tea featuring rhubarb, cranberry and raspberries. But I’m going to have a crack using Owner/Chef Adam Humphrey’s own words: “We’re very serious about what goes on the plate, but we’re taking the piss.” So it’s food puns and sight gags (backed by impeccable technique) in a fun menu that will have you plucking heirloom carrots to uncover the Rabbit of Arras Hill. The dish is a tasty nod to Adam’s mother who implored: “Shoot the rabbits, don’t shoot the hares.” Bunnies aside, vegetarians are rarely treated to quite so many textures of Potato (confit, crisped and melted) in one dish, enhanced by an indulgent pool of potato broth. It’s enough to convert a carnivore. And things only get better with dessert! Aww I Spilled My… is possibly the cleverest and best dessert I’ve had all year. Complete with a blown sugar glass, it’s one spilt Negroni that will have you laughing not crying! Three Course A La Carte ($90/head) comes with all the flashy trimmings, but lash out on the Cheese Trolley Supplement ($15/head) anyway; it’s great (and so are the touted petit fours).
204 Clarence Street, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9283 1922 restaurantarras.com.au
Modern European $$$$