Step into this red-lit cellar for an inspired introduction to sherry. Here it’s not just an accessory to food – though their offerings leave most of Sydney’s tapas for dead – but an end in itself. Leave yourself in the hands of an aficionado – owner Frank Dilernia’s opening La Bota di Fino No 27 ($14/glass) was such a gentle introduction to sherry, I went back again with dessert. Sherry-infused White Sangria ($11) is as delicate as peach iced tea; or there’s a veritable wall of wines to explore, in carafe sizes to suit all comers. The microscopic kitchen also manages to make powerful magic – from Broad Bean, Pea, Mint and Goat’s Curd Tostado ($11) that illuminate three vivid shades of green; to a board of Jamón Serrano, Burrata and Pickled Red Onion ($18) you won’t want to share. Explore the Spanish coastline with brightly pickled Sardines de Compostela ($17), but save space for dessert! The Chocolate Terrine with Olive Oil and Salt Flake ($12) is ridiculously good, eclipsing my usual preference for caramel in the (also inspired) Dulce de Leche Tart ($12). Frank’s accompanying Cristina Abocado Oloroso ($9) delivered sweet with a salty undercurrent. It reminded me of an older woman’s perfume, once it has settled into her skin…
Tapavino
6-8 Bulletin Place, Sydney
Ph: (02) 9247 3221 www.tapavino.com.au
Bar Food, Spanish $$-$$$
