Eat & Drink

Hartsyard

Sitting in this street-level dining room done-up as a basement, surrounded by urbane hipsters boasting manicured facial hair and buttoned-up shirts, I found myself somewhat perplexed. Sure French-Canadian Poutine ($20) in Sydney is still a novelty; whereas in Melbourne you can eat, what’s essentially chips, cheese curd and gravy, post-clubbing at Lord of the Fries. The Hartsyard version is admittedly fancier – with oxtail gravy, cheddar beer sauce, and scattered bresaola – but it’s also hellishly rich. You might ease its passage with the 2010 Ca’Rugate Vino Bianco Garganega ($8.50/glass) – if you can get over the stemless hipster glasses making pours seem mean. This was also the case with the Hartsyard Manhattan ($17.50), where a wafer of crisp prosciutto teetered well above the reddish drink. The Pisco Punch ($17.50) drank well, and was on-trend for 2012 with smoked pineapple in the mix. If you can be bothered peeling ‘em yourself, Broad Bean Cooked Over Charcoal ($16) sing against lemon jam and romesco. Smoked Beef Short Rib ($32) slow-cooked with accompanying marrow was good, but also heavy going. The only justification for the hype I encountered was Deep Fried Cheese Cake ($16) where standout yuzu butter and popcorn ice cream kept my spoon returning. Maybe it was just an off night…

Hartsyard
33 Enmore Road, Newtown
Ph: (02) 8068 1473 www.hartsyard.com.au
American $$$$