Thanks to pioneers like Sujet Saenkham, and predecessor Chat Thai, the bar has definitely been raised on Thai food in Sydney. Consequentially, we’re more used to eating regional Thai cuisine, so it’s less of a surprise. This might be partly why Sujet has morphed the Darlo jewel in his three-restaurant crown into a more casual affair, with lower prices to match. His now t-shirt clad staff still attend to your every need, just with a more casual enthusiasm. Other than that, it’s business as usual: crisp prawn topped betel leaves – Bour Tod ($14/6 pieces) – remain my favourite entrée; and that monumental pile of brioche and pandan gelato knitted together by Thai caramel – Better than Sex ($15) – remains my favourite dessert. Cocktail list standout, Jemima Hollywood ($17), sees cuisine-appropriate flavours like watermelon, spearmint, lime juice and kaffir lime leaf, gobble Wyborowa vodka, green apple and ginger liqueurs. As I arrived both late and hungry, I appreciated quick protein hits in the form of Nua Daed Deaw ($9) (beef strips) and juicy Gai Yang ($22) (marinated chicken), both set against spicy Jim-Jaew sauce. They were both eclipsed by a new dish – a rich and fragrant Massaman Curry Duck ($29), which I hope makes the regular menu soon!
Spice I Am
296-300 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9332 2445 www.spiceIam.com.au