Parma
Image: I landed at this slickly fitted out new Crown Street entry straight on the back of a trip to Orange, where Union Bank Wine Bar’s duck and porcini lasagne had me enthralled. So I was understandably hesitant to try this spot’s version of the same dish, Lasagna D’Anatra ($28), lest it fail to reach those lofty heights.

I landed at this slickly fitted out new Crown Street entry straight on the back of a trip to Orange, where Union Bank Wine Bar’s duck and porcini lasagne had me enthralled. So I was understandably hesitant to try this spot’s version of the same dish, Lasagna D’Anatra ($28), lest it fail to reach those lofty heights. So I ordered the Gnocchi Di Patate ($23) decked out with a light tomato sugo, bocconcini and torn basil leaves, and have regretted it ever since. What I’m trying to say – beyond order the lasagne – is that despite the single page placemat menu, ordering here requires bargaining. There are many things you’ll want to eat. The Bianca Neve Pizza ($26) is a case in point. It involves three cheeses – mozzarella, Gorgonzola and goat’s curd – plus porcini cream; clearly a must-have. To eat it though, you’ll have to forgo Alessandro Vinci’s “ode to Sicily” (his homeland) – Involtini de Pesce Scada ($28) (charred swordfish rolls). Console yourself with a generous salad entrée, Prosciutto Ed Asparaggi ($18), boasting grilled asparagus, white anchovies and crisp prosciutto, bound together by a poached egg. It’ll leave precisely enough room for chef’s decadently modern Chocolate and Orange Mousse Cake ($14) – now that I consider a win!

Parma
285A Crown Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9332 4974 www.parmacucina.com.au
Modern Italian $$$

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