In light of my recent column about supporting restaurants we want to stay around, I nipped in for another taste of Darren Templeman’s good cooking. It’s pure folly to imagine his three-course Mid Week Special ($70/head) is a pared back affair. It includes all the trimmings from amuse bouche to pre-dessert, so settle in for a luxurious, midweek ride. Gagging for some Thirlmere Goose ($24) before Xmas climes makes it less appealing, I’m surprised to report it was actually his achingly tender Tasmanian Abalone with House-Smoked Pork Jowl, Enoki, Korean Master Soy and Nasturtium Leaves ($24) that rocked my world. Darren demonstrates his mastery of flavours in this intricate dance of sea and smoky swine; nothing is out of place. You’d do well to follow it with a fleshy plate of Grimaud Duckling ($36) glazed in caramel and Szechuan pepper. Considering chef’s generosity, sides here can push you over the edge. Death by Pomme Aligot ($12) mash with Comté and caramelised onion is perfectly fine by me. Since we’ve gone all La Grande Bouffe, swill a bottle Orange’s surprising 2008 Bloodwood Shiraz ($59) before dessert. The Souffle’s ($15) the signature for a reason, but I’d return (again) to dabble in the surprisingly salty Chocolate and Olive Oil Délice ($15).

Restaurant Atelier
22 Glebe Point Road, Glebe
Ph: (02) 9566 2112 www.restaurantatelier.com.au
Modern European/French  $$$$