Just when you start to think the English can’t teach us anything about food, Matt Kemp comes along to remind us that they can. His beautifully executed Wild Boar Pork Pie ($10) is encased in a hot water crust pastry so fine, you’ll dangle from your oversized bar stool to scrape up every last morsel against tart, house-made piccalilli. The simple things stand out – like airy Yorky Puds with Mustards ($6). They’re ideal for wrapping heart-stopping pork crackling, once the greens run out on Crackling, Witlof and Watercress ($5). Employ the 2010 Keller Grüner Silvaner ($27/375ml) as the perfect porky foil. Revelling in the ability to mix and match half bottles without fiscal penalty, my dining companion and I duel red and white across Oysters with Red Wine Shallot Vinegar ($2.50/each) and a cute board of Snails, Oxtail and Parsley ($14). The 2010 Jean-Claude Lapalu ‘Tentation’ Beaujolais ($25/375ml) is but one natural temptation from a planet-friendly list favouring the organic and biodynamic offerings of Australia and Europe. Hone your own wine-matching skills against a Selection of Four Cheeses ($20), including the English styled Cabot Clothbound Cheddar from Vermont. Attention to detail in everything from ripeness to accompaniments makes this well priced cheese board a Sydney gem!
The Montpellier Public House
141 Belmore Road, Randwick
Ph: (02) 9399 9660 www.montpellierpublichouse.com.au