Amarcord
Image: The name of this restaurant means ‘I remember’; it was also the title of a Federico Fellini film about remembering your beginnings.
The name of this restaurant means ‘I remember’; it was also the title of a Federico Fellini film about remembering your beginnings. Co-owner/Chef Andrea Riva (ex-Zeffirelli) points to the sepia mural of Cesena’s Piazza del Popolo that covers one wall of the petite but pretty dining room; his family home is almost visible. He brings the food of his boyhood to the table, in a charming and heartfelt way. His Fritto Misto Tricolore ($18) is the best I’ve tried, with tender rings of calamari in ethereal batter balanced by strips of zucchini. The Flan di Grana Padano ($16) is comparable to a gooey-centred twice-baked Parmesan soufflé; with rich intensity offset by a grape reduction. Best of all is his addictive hand-made Italian flatbread or Piadina ($5) served in a brown paper bag with a pot of Slow-Baked Cuttlefish with Peas ($16). Friend and co-owner Vincenzo Biondini (ex-Rosso Pomodoro) twists the Strozzapreti ($24) by hand each day; I enjoy it with smoked salmon, asparagus and a dab of cream. Even more exciting is the beautifully chewy and not overfilled Ravioli di Ricotta e Parmigiano ($25) against pancetta, olives and cherry tomatoes. It’s the kind of regional Italian you find tucked away in the mountains with a Nonna still cooking! BYO
Amarcord
96 Bronte Road, Bondi Junction
Ph: (02) 9369 4071
Italian $$$
