It wasn’t hard to twist my arm to return here for another taste of Michiaki Miyazaki’s stellar sushi; and the cleverly unfolding flavours of his Blue Swimmer Crab Salad Roll ($13) with pickled mango did not disappoint. This time though his dishes were eclipsed somewhat by recent acquisition Shea Crawford’s new menu entries. The signature Beetroot Cured Kingfish ($16) showcases the fish’s delicacy. It was wonderfully harmonious with the 2007 Shaky Bridge Gewürztraminer ($60); a classy, post-grad Gewürz. with a tertiary education. While we’re talking drinks, try out Ben Brunnekreef’s new cocktail list; his delicate Ringo Ninja ($16) edged with sherbet appealed to my inner (alcoholic) child. I’d also recommend Shae’s updated Caramelised Pork Lettuce Cup ($17/4 pieces) dripping with umami and moist mushroom chunks – they’re about the best thing you could wrap in a lettuce leaf! His Chawan-Mushi ($15), a cold savoury egg custard topped with a lime and lemon marinated raw prawn salad, however might be an acquired taste. You can also experience him turning a Caesar Salad ($16) Japanese, and using sous-vide to enhance a moist Teriyaki Chook ($23) on the better-value menu. I’ll be back for another Salmon and Avocado Roll ($15) with the attention seeking ginger forthwith!
3 & 4, 410 Crown Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 9358 4444 www.monkeymagic.com.au
Japanese Fusion $$$