Tharen’s
Image: Plentiful alcohol, women and fantasy themeing in Kings Cross usually means one thing - but at this iconic venue (dating back to 1979) you’re more likely to find the Queen of Hearts bearing a flaming Bombé Alaska, strange hats, group singing and a surprisingly good meal.

Plentiful alcohol, women and fantasy themeing in Kings Cross usually means one thing – but at this iconic venue (dating back to 1979) you’re more likely to find the Queen of Hearts bearing a flaming Bombé Alaska, strange hats, group singing and a surprisingly good meal. Sparkling La Vie Pinot Noir Chardonnay ($38) will help lubricate your essential hat/wig/prop selection from the well-decorated walls. Enjoy your selected entree – the Chicken Liver Parfait with Roast Honey Figs is great – as you are entertained at the table by a roaming magician and elegant hostess Prada Clutch. Prada divulges she is one of Sydney’s “three singing drag queens” before ripping into a saucy version of Big Spender. The crowd adores her, demanding an encore as I try a cheesy Twice Cooked Four Cheese Soufflé. For mains I favoured Roast Veal with Porcini Mushroom Gratin over the nicely cooked Lemon and Dill Crusted Salmon Fillet With Citrus Sabayon and the slightly pedestrian vegetarian Gnocchi. Bread, salad, dessert and a well-cooked bowl of vegetables fill out any corners. As we finish our lovely 2007 Daniel Dampt Chablis ($55) the whole restaurant is up, dancing with joyous abandon. Grinning staff expertly sidestep as they clear plates; it’s all refreshingly attitude-free.

Tharen’s
13-15 Kellett Way, Kings Cross
Ph: (02) 9326 9510 www.tharens.com.au
Theatre Restaurant ($59.50/head, $93.50/with unlimited alcohol)

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