Porteño

From two blocks away, the aroma of barbequed meat begins to hound you. Your pace automatically quickens, meaning you join the growing queue at a quarter to six. If lady luck smiles upon you, you dine in the first sitting.  This is optimal because the centralised fire pit only accommodates two sheep and two pigs. The 8-hour Woodfired Pig ($46) trumps the 8-hour Woodfired Lamb ($46). It’ll be the highlight of your meal, unless of course the immaculately dressed rockabilly hostess Sarah Doyle stops by your table (in which case, you may have two meal highlights). Tender Pickled Veal Tongue ($8) or the unctuous Kobe Cuisine Wagyu Skirt ($42) ensures you win the animal trifecta; but don’t let that make you think you can’t bring a vegetarian. Assuming they can abide the heady aroma, you fluff out your meal here with some of the best sides in town. Not only are their Brussels Sprouts ($14) (deep-fried with lentils, mint and vincotto) the tastiest in town; there’s gooey Polenta with Provolone ($14); and a tostada bearing Eggplant, Peppers, Cauliflower and Quail Eggs ($24). Stagger upstairs to end the night with more tattooed table service (this time cocktails) in the rich red surrounds of Gardel’s Bar. Yep, it’s all that…

Porteño
358 Cleveland Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 8399 1440 www.porteno.com.au
Argentinean $$$$