Bloodwood
Three talented Claude’s defectors –Claire van Vuuren, Jo Ward and Mitch Grady – show Oxford Street’s loss is definitely Newtown’s gain. Claire explains, they picked this location to “cook for people we could relate to more.” Local designer Matt Woods has concocted an achingly cool space using reclaimed materials, incorporating a very sexy antler light by Volker Haug. Even more exciting, as I walked past the centrally located open-plan kitchen, all three owner/chefs were in attendance on a Monday night! Perfectly executed Polenta Chips ($9) with a Gorgonzola dipping sauce show that even as they relax the rules, they can’t shake off excellent technique. It shines in Baked Mushrooms ($17) with four varieties of mushroom cooked to perfection in a compelling sauce. The highlight’s Miso Baked King Fish ($32), cooked beautifully in paper and served with a wonderfully wet radish salad. Drink from the deceptively straight-up cocktail list – yes, organic Earl Grey tea syrup makes a Bloodwood Iced Tea ($18) rather special – or enjoy wines like the light, lemony 2009 Fox Gordon Princess Fiano ($38). End your journey into shared cuisine (four or five dishes feed two people) with a two-spoon tango in the Bloodwood Trifle ($12) of rhubarb jelly, pomegranate ice and chunks of buttery pound cake.
Bloodwood
416 King Street, Newtown (02) 9557 7699 www.bloodwoodnewtown.com
Modern Australian $$$
