Bay Tinh
Image: Flamboyant and personable Harry Hoang rose to the challenge of taking the reins of Tinh Tran’s successful restaurant and making it his own.
Flamboyant and personable Harry Hoang rose to the challenge of taking the reins of Tinh Tran’s successful restaurant and making it his own. The putrid pink walls of my recollections have been lost in favour of warm, modern decor. Waitresses wearing matching ao dai split to the waist over white pantaloons gracefully negotiate the tiny spaces between packed tables. The crowds speak to the ongoing success of the restaurant, but now they’re mostly Westerners. Harry has removed the MSG, upped produce quality and shortened cooking times. Overall I’d say this has dampened the flavour of the dishes, but in the Tender Beef Cubes ($12), this allows the grain fed yearling beef to be the hero. I enjoyed the Grilled Pork Skewer ($18), but our Crispy Quail ($9.50) arrived a little too crispy for my liking. The current Crispy Pancake ($12.50) didn’t live up to the splendour of my memories. Newer dishes like Harry’s aromatic Beef Curry ($17) wins fans at my table; while lettuce leaf boats of Duck Salad ($16.50) feel a bit gritty from dried brown rice powder. Drink from a small list of reasonably priced wines like the Stonefish Sauvignon Blanc ($6.50/glass, $25/bottle) to save a trip to the bottle shop.
Bay Tinh
318 Victoria Road, Marrickville
Ph: (02) 9560 8673
Vietnamese $$
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