Mum’s Table

Booze Eat & Drink Vegetarian Vietnamese

Jackie McMillan
July 15, 2015

“Pho is a beef noodle broth,” says Mylisa Nguyen (ex-LuMi Dining) emphatically, before continuing: “there’s nothing vegetarian in Vietnamese food.” It seems Surry Hills folk have been demanding vegetarian pho without realising it’s like asking for vegetarian chicken noodle soup. Rather than “just give it to them”, Mylisa is showing steely determination to be true to her cultural identity at Mum’s Table. It pays off in a wonderfully balanced bowl of Pho Tai Nam ($14) with rare beef and sliced beef brisket. This business is “all in the family” from the bright, modern spacious restaurant design featuring Vietnamese hats (Nón Lá) hanging from the ceiling, to Mum and Dad (Maria and Ian) both playing starring roles. While it’s their first family restaurant, they have run takeaway outlets, including a bakery; so, as you’d expect, the banh mi (Vietnamese baguettes) here are great, particularly Dad’s favourite: Banh Mi Heo Quay ($9.50) with crisp pork belly and ginger sauce. You’ll also find all the perennial favourites from Pork Stuffed Chicken Wings ($10.80/2) and Sugarcane Prawn Mousse ($10.80/4) to Crispy Pancake ($16.50) (which, incidentally, does come in vegetarian) stuffed with tender roast pork and prawns. Trust me when I say Homemade Crispy Skin Chicken ($14) and a Hanoi Beer ($8) provide great comfort on a blustery winter’s day.