Dragoncello

Assuming I was heading to another Surry Hills hipster bar, I invited a date, promising quirky cocktails, bar snacks and laughs. And at first glance, that’s what this deep brown Cleveland Street drinking den suggests, before it sucker punches you with layers of flavour and texture in a bar snack combining Morcilla, White Peach, Fennel and Salted Cinnamon Popcorn ($13). While my palate went: hello, my date’s went: oh-no, as she bravely traversed my selections, including a 62 Degree Egg ($7) on pea puree with smoked eel dashi poured tableside. Port and Poultry Pate ($11) – another first for her – had me cooing over superfine texture and pretty plating. The camomile jelly is crowned with edible flowers from chef’s onsite garden, supplemented by two off-site gardens. Yes, we’re talking a serious chef – Roy McVeigh – whom you may have encountered at big hitters like Berowra Waters Inn or Guillaume at Bennelong. This menu reflects his playful side, most evident in BBQ Potato Gnocchi with Savoy Cabbage, Confit Garlic and Beurre Noisette ($28). Dessert gets our table back on speaking terms – she’s mostly content with a Potato Chip Cake ($16) with salted caramel, while I’m in raptures over Carrot Sorbet, White Chocolate and Vadouvan ($16). I’m guessing my obsession with the wild Indian Marsala dessert was the deal breaker…

Dragoncello
466 Cleveland Street, Surry Hills
Ph: (02) 8399 0907 dragoncello.com.au
Bar, Modern Australian $$$

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