Civilian Bar & Kitchen

Bar Bar Food Booze Dessert Eat & Drink Modern Australian Wine

Jackie McMillan
February 18, 2015

It’s a brave restaurateur that jumps into the space formerly occupied by Christine Manfield’s Universal, not least of which because of the Tetris-style pack down required every shift. And while Manfield’s memory lingers in the outdoor courtyard, Steve Waldeck has drawn a clear division by changing her tangerine to cool aquamarine. It lends a relaxed Mediterranean feel that invites you to linger in the balmy evening air over your Cambridge Road Papillon Blanc 2014 ($77), an interesting blend of Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir and Riesling throwing fruit and flowers. The food offerings are pleasantly free from lofty ambitions. Head Chef Andy Ball (ex-Bel Mondo) has put together a short list of accessible share plates arranged by size, allowing you to choose your own adventure. For casual drinkers there are snacks like Almonds ($7), Olives ($9) and Sydney Rocks ($5/each) enhanced by cucumber, apple and chardonnay. If you’re hungry, skip straight to the mustard-crumbed Coorong Angus ($39); cut tagliata for easy sharing, on kale, white anchovy and mushrooms. Standout Goats Cheese Tortellini ($22) and the Roasted Pumpkin ($16) dotted with pepitas, shallots and chèvre, satisfy without the use of meat. Alternatively you can throw your hands in the air and cry: Feed Me ($65/head) to receive an excellent value six-course meal, ending with a shared Vanilla Pannacotta ($17) verrine.

Civilian Bar & Kitchen
248 Palmer Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9361 4162 civilian.net.au
Modern Australian $$$

REVIEW: Karen’s Diner Top Ryde

Arts & Entertainment Eat & Drink Scene

Swagatalakshmi Roychowdhury
June 28, 2022

I am not going to lie, walking into Karen’s Diner, which is reputed to have the worst customer service in the city, can be nerve-wracking. After several minutes of nervous pacing and scrolling through the reservation confirmation with clammy hands, a Karen turned to serve me. Rolling eyes and sass made up most of her demeanour, which finally put me at ease. As I looked around, I realised I was not the only nervous one in the diner. Many of customers were similarly hesitant to order their food, all of whom were understandably unwilling to invoke the Karens’ wrath but equally keen to experience what this place was all about.

An evening at Karen’s Diner was a fun experience indeed. From aggressive pushes of food on the table to constant f-bombs and booing at customers, Karen’s Diner was a vibe.

The diner decorations were also quite beautiful. Seated at a high-top table with a table full of has-beens next to a comic plastered wall we watched the customers heading out to play the Wheel of Misfortune. Misfortunes that could land you anywhere between model walks to the not-so-fun spicy shots.

I ate a meal called the “Royale Karen” alongside sips of a cocktail called the “Sour Karen” – listening to Good Golly Miss Molly playing overhead. The food was good, but it could have been better.