Alfio’s

Leveraging off a series of legendary pop-ups, including one in Opera Australia’s back lot, the Full Circle crew have snaffled semi-permanent digs on a sundrenched back street in Leichhardt. The early session (6pm) sees a friendly collection of locals, heavy on beards, young parents and loafers without socks, sitting relaxed and convivial around the largest communal table. Behind them an Amalfi coast mural catches the last rays of sun. Like the hanging Chianti bottles, it’s part of the previous occupant’s décor, which now – with the restaurant populated by hipsters – looks conveniently ironic. All eyes are on chef Daniel Johnston’s daily chalkboard menu; kicking off with house-made bread and butter. Roman beans, tender from simmering all day in the pot, follow. The three-night week leaves chef time for the little things, like making creamy ricotta (that adorns char grilled zucchini, mint and chilli) and malloreddus, eggless Sardinian pasta, he dresses in a simple cherry tomato sauce with skinless salsicce  (Italian sausage) and grated ricotta salata. After a simple grilled leatherjacket main accompanied by generous shared sides, I’m happy to end on Brunet, an indulgent fresh goats cheese from Piedmont. Surprise honey ricotta fritters are another hint this collective likes exceeding expectations – except with the bill: fifty bucks apiece and no charge for BYO.

Alfio’s
71 Renwick Street, Leichhardt
Ph: (02) 9560 2447 alfios.com.au
Italian $$