The Eastern has grown up: El Topo, Chimmi’s and The Publican offer relaxed dining and drinks, while Anatoli is sophisticated, with elegant Greek food in a fine dining setting. As the middle child, it’s a little neglected, but it could have been the rain – Greek food is great for cold nights! The Pork Cutlet ($30) with a side of moussaka (should be a dish unto itself) warms, coupled with the healing powers of a Rosemary Mule ($17). Taramasalata ($10) is the best I’ve had, it’d be a crime to get this wrong; while Whole Artichoke ($10) swimming in lemon butter was a new experience – messy but enjoyable. Showing Greek food’s versatility, the Bonito with White Anchovy ($25) is light and summery – this fish is like a stronger, sharper tuna. Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($12) with flakes of Parmesan and creamy tahini paste will put to bed those green veg. fears. The wine list is pages long, with lots of Greek options and quotes from the Bible and Basil Fawlty. We finished with Wine Poached Pear ($16) with custard, semolina and caramelised almond, a cute and tasty dessert that puts all textures onto the one spoon. The Eastern is doing well but Anatoli might need a bailout – get down there.
Level 1, The Eastern, 500 Oxford Street, Bondi Junction
Ph: (02) 9387 7828 anatolirestaurant.com.au