Duke Bistro

It’s been the year of the three-word slogan (‘stop the boats’), the verbal triptych; so this menu by ex-Ledbury boy, Nik Hill, is on-point. While the dish descriptions offer you just three key ingredients, unlike the Liberal Party, what’s on the plate is backed up by clear policies.  While it’s still playful food – take Potato Risotto, Taleggio ($15) for example – these days it’s much more of a restaurant cunningly disguised as a gastro-pub. Dishes like Fried Chicken, Pine Needles, Herb Emulsion ($12) provide a linking line to the (somewhat overpriced) hipster venue it used to be; though now your chook’s presented Noma-light on a bed of pine needles adorning a lump of driftwood. The foodie nature of the joint is reinforced by Restaurant Manager James Caldwell, who bothered calling Noma “190 times in a day” to reserve their private dining room. He directs me to a Lamb Shoulder, Goat’s Curd, Dried Olive ($28) so good, it makes me wish it were still winter. Luckily Duck, Christmas Pudding Puree, Cherries ($29) ‘sleighs’ me with an entertainingly modern take on Xmas. Even cocktails like Tunnelling Tijuana ($19) looks retro cruise-liner but sucker punches with a huge chilli hit. Strawberries, Buttermilk, Hibiscus ($12) ends the surprises rather sweetly. Time to revisit…

Duke Bistro
Level 1, The Flinders Hotel, 65 Flinders Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9332 3180 dukebistro.com.au
Modern Australian $$$