Steak has a new subterranean address. It’s not the usual penis temple either – illustrated by The Hon. Pru Goward, Minister for Women dining one table over. Though do expect to have to man-up to tackle Head Chef James Privett’s robust entrée of Roast Quail, Smoked Eel, Duck, Celeriac and Goat’s Cheese ($24). Like everything I tasted, it doesn’t skimp on prime quality ingredients. Rather than overwhelming you with choice, Privett confidently delivers three excellent types of beef – Sher F1 Wagyu, Riverine 150 Day Grain Fed and Tasmanian Wilderness Grassfed. Call it educational and eat them side-by-side on the Beef Fillet Tasting Plate ($72) with Sauce Bordelaise ($5). Sure, it’s an easy place to spend money, but guaranteed pleasure results, especially if you follow the recommendations of the engaged floor team. Daniel Katsanos had me drinking a cracking 2009 Soho McQueen Pinot Noir ($24/glass); and knew only Dijon mustard would make the 4-Hour Wagyu Standing Rib ($42/300g) sing. Lured by a provocative description involving bondage and Nigella, I wrap things up with an exciting Lemon Curd Brûlée ($14) from bird in a cage (and pastry chef to watch) Brooke Queitzsch. It’s truly an all-star cast, not forgetting Kiwi mixologist Sean Heat whose Emerald Forest ($20) captures Poland in a glass – magic from the first sip!
The Cut Bar & Grill
16 Argyle Street, The Rocks
Ph: (02) 9259 5695 www.cutbarandgrill.com