Best Italian Experience: Little Sicily

This culinary mainstay stays clear of Norton Street and bridges the city’s two Italian suburbs: Leichhardt and Haberfield. The genius behind the ever-evolving menu? Sicilian chef Ciccio Totaro who is kept on his toes by his equally talented 32-year-old son and prodigy Adriano. Tasty highlights include the homemade gnocchi, suckling pig and Garfish but often regulars just ask the chef to lay out a spread. At 64, chef Ciccio is officially retired but works at the family-run establishment pro bono. His restaurant repertoire includes Bar Italia, Frattini, La Rustica (Parramatta Road), and L’Unico (Balmain). On Friday and Saturday nights, the 20-table bistro can pack in 140 diners so be warned and book in advance. (Deb Erwin) 194 Marion St, Leichhardt, 9518 0960/9560 2255 www.littlesicily.org