Bistro Ortolan
It seems the gap between one-hat and two-hat restaurants just got wider! Inside the warm, elegant room – a perfect respite from the wild and woolly weather outside – you’ll find technical excellence, generosity and a feeling of value for money that belies the high-end price tags. An elegant, restrained crab consommé is the perfect foil to a plump pair of Queensland Mud Crab Tortellini ($32); showcasing the crustacean’s flavour. Black Angus Beef ($33) is equally well-handled, in a three-way celebration involving terrine, tartare and ‘black and blue’. After a well-timed pause, which takes into account the generous portions, mains are equally impressive. At one end there’s a vibrant collection of baby greens with a Crépinette of Pink Snapper and Spinach with Hervey Bay Scallops and Foie Gras Butter ($36). At the other, a wintery repast of Sirloin and Tenderloin of Organic Ways Veal ($46) that shouts abundance with pine mushrooms, a soubise puree and bone-marrow dauphinoise. After so many runs on the board, dessert is no longer a question. The standout for me was the Roasted Banana and Salted Caramel ‘Bombe Alaska’ ($18), teamed, at the sommelier’s brilliant suggestion, with a French Distillerie Vedrenne Salt Caramel Liqueur ($18). Match made in heaven – and these days it appears heaven is in Leichhardt! Bravo!
Bistro Ortolan
134 Marion Street, Leichhardt
Ph: (02) 9568 4610 www.bistroortolan.com.au
Modern French $$$$
