Brook Street Kitchen and Bar

Randwick Rugby Club’s recent renovations and the resulting newly-located fine diner was certainly chosen with a finger on the gastronomic pulse of middle Australia. It’s a resoundingly satisfying experience with an underlying attitude that food on a plate should be local, seasonal, filling and familiar. It’s all this and more; it’s also an accessible fine dining experience that’s a bit special. The warm designer room is in familiar Randwick renovator colours – think aubergine, burgundy and tarnished gold. Don’t pass on the house-made bread served with oil and excellent Danish butter. Seared Scallops ($16) with well-cooked clams a la Grecque and a gentle fennel tarte tatin are unique, well thought-out and more than three blobs on a plate! The Veal Sweetbreads ($14) with black pudding, pea puree and caramelised apple fondant were an absolute delight. It was comfort and class all the way in my main of Poussin Breasts with Confit Leg Pithivier ($25). ‘Pithivier’ is just a fancy word for a round, puff pastry pie; this is one of the few bits of pretension on a menu with something to please all-comers. The wine list might not astound but the 2008 Scorpo Aubaine Chardonnay ($56) is exceptional, and one of the more expensive wines on the list.

Brook Street Kitchen and Bar
102-104 Brook Street, Coogee
Ph: (02) 9665 5447
Modern Australian  $$$