Forbes and Burton

As a river of bats flowed overhead, I marvelled at the changes to this pretty sandstone venue which I recalled as having serious acoustic issues last time I visited. The space has been widened and a false ceiling with a bright strawberry facade has been added. It looks, and more importantly, sounds great. Also impressive is the small but well put together wine list. I tried the unique 2006 Rippon Vineyard Osteiner ($43) and the lively acidity suited our Thai Prawn and Green Papaya Salad ($16.50) entree. Chef Nathan Peters’ entree of Seared Scallops with Melitzano ($18) was perhaps a little dominated by the flat leaf parsley. His flavoursome house-made Gnocchi with Buffalo Mozzarella and Cherry Tomatoes ($21.50) arrived particularly well-caramelised; so the best bite of the night went to his nicely balanced Pancetta Wrapped Duck Breast with Caramelised Apple and Calvados Sauce ($29.50). With an on-the-blink freezer taking out his famed Pineapple Passionfruit Vacherin ($12), I substituted a Vanilla Panna Cotta ($11.00) which also showed nice balance with the accompanying mango and raspberries. A glass of the 2006 Capercaillie Gewürztraminer ($8) from Lovedale also hit the spot with raisin-like flavours generated from grapes left long on the vine.

Forbes and Burton
252 Forbes Street, Darlinghurst
Ph: (02) 9356 8788
Modern Australian $$$