Chef Sean Connolly says the cuisine here ‘touches my heart‘, as it’s ‘real food for real people.‘ If you’ve yearned for a fine-diner experience with an accessible menu, this fits the bill. It’s a sparkling Las Vegas-style restaurant with a superb fit-out. Crates of Krug partially block the view of punters feeding their pensions into the slots; but realize they support the excellent price to quality ratio. From sterling Wagyu Grade 9+ Sirloin ($75) with veal jus and béarnaise, to excellent oysters like Moonlight Flat Angasi ($4/each) matched well with ‘La Goya’ Sherry ($6/glass); it’s all good. The Steak Tartare ($24) of excellent Angus tenderloin showed the best integration of flavour I’ve had, served with buttery toast. The jamón excels due to proper storage in a cabinet that replicates cave-like conditions. Sean’s Flavours of Jamón ($40) gives you three hams – the Oro Gold Iberico de Bellota wins. Sommelier Robert Nicholson is still tweaking the existing list but produced a fabulous 2004 Spanish Grenache called Pegaso ($90). Sharing’s the way to experience more of the wide menu. You’ll need two spoons for the divine Duck Egg Crème Catalan ($12). Don’t feel the need to dress to the nines, all sorts of patrons attend for food that makes familiar into fabulous, like Wagyu Bangers and Beans ($30).
Level 2, Star City Casino, 80 Pyrmont Street, Pyrmont
Ph: (02) 9777 9000
Spanglo (Spanish/Anglo) $$$$