Civic Dining
The stylishly revamped art-deco room, complete with a gleaming baby grand piano, provides a wonderful setting for Modern Greek cuisine that cruises above and beyond even ‘gastro-pub’ fare. Start with a flaky Blue Swimmer Crab and Haloumi Tartlet ($24) or a beautifully plated (and partially de-boned) Pomegranate Roasted Quail ($24) set atop a salad of watermelon, sheep’s fetta and chorizo. Peter Conistis (ex-Omega) excels in bringing the flavours of Greece, and the wider Mediterranean region, to mains like Caramelised King Prawns and Kinkawooka Mussels ($33) on a bed of pumpkin orzo (rice-shaped pasta) flecked with fetta, mint, olives and chilli. But it’s dessert that provides the moment of greatest rapture with a White Chocolate and Orange Blossom Sorbet ($14), served in a glass biscuit cone on a bed of fresh orange, dates and Iranian candied green oranges. Drink in keeping with the cuisine with a good selection of Greek wines ‘ the standout being a 2006 Boutari Moschofilero ($8/glass, $40/bottle). Service is relaxed and informative; and if you dine in the month starting March 26th, you can also try the five course Greek Easter Degustation Menu ($95, $145 with wine).
The Civic Hotel, Level 1, 388 Pitt St, Sydney
Ph: (02) 8080 7040
Modern Greek/Mediterranean $$$$
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